Baguettes

In her book on English Bread and Yeast Cookery, Elizabeth David argues that there is really no point in trying to recreate French bread in an English home kitchen. In a way I agree, the flour produced in France has a different flavour to the flour we have here and bakery ovens do give very different results from domestic ovens.

However, as supermarket baguettes are so far from even vaguely resembling a proper French baguette, if you made a really bad baguette at home it would still be better than a shop bought one (unless you have a nice bakery near you, which unfortunately I don't). The Co-op are the worst culprits, the taste and texture of their baguette is more like cotton wool than bread, let alone the crisp crust and chewy crumb that a proper baguette should have.

I expect the problem is that baguettes take time, and supermarkets don't want to have dough hanging around proving slowly when they could pump it full of yeast and additives and get it out on the shelves quickly to make more money. So, obsessive discerning foodie that I am, I decided I would have to make a proper baguette myself.

I will admit that this does take some time, and it's not something I would do every week, but if you, like me, have been spoilt by living in France and being able to walk less than 50 yards from your door to buy delicious baguettes from your favourite boulangerie, you may well find these worth the effort.

Things I have learnt from making baguettes

When working with a wet dough like this, the 'air kneading' method is much easier than the normal kneading method. To do this, pick up the dough then slap it down and fold it over on itself, then pick it up again, give it quarter turn and repeat – this video explains it much very clearly.

Another traditional method used in baguette making is the 'stretch and fold' technique, whilst the dough is proving you stretch the dough upwards then fold it over itself in two or three folds and leave it to rest for 30 minutes before repeating the process. This helps to develop the gluten strands so the baguettes hold their shape.

The recipe I used was originally written for a stand mixer, so I had to adapt it slightly for kneading by hand. This may explain why the texture of his baguette looks so much better than mine, but I expect it's more do with technique so hopefully I will improve with practice!

Baguettes a l'ancienne: makes 4

(adapted from this recipe on The Fresh Loaf)

Day 1:

470g strong white flour

30g rye flour

300g cold water

• Mix the flours together with the water in a large mixing bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until thoroughly combined
• Cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave in the fridge overnight

Day 2:

50g cold water

4g instant yeast

7g salt

• Add the water and yeast to the dough and mix to combine
• Scrape the dough out of the bowl and onto a worktop
• Sprinkle the salt over the dough and begin kneading the dough (see notes above)
• Knead the dough for 10-15 minutes or until it forms a smooth shiny ball that pulls off the worktop in one piece
• Leave the dough on the worktop and cover with the upturned mixing bowl
• Rest for 15 minutes then pick up one side of the dough and stretch it upwards, whilst being careful not to tear it, before folding it back over itself
• Cover with the mixing bowl and leave to rest for 30 minutes
• Repeat the 'stretch and fold' 4 more times at 30 minutes intervals
• Place the dough back in the bowl then cover with cling film and leave in the fridge for 24 hours

Day 3:

• Scrape the dough out of the bowl and divide into 4 evenly sized pieces
• Shape the dough into the baguettes (this video explains the shaping process)
• Place onto two well-floured baking trays and leave to prove for 1 hour, or until risen and puffy

• Preheat the oven to 240°C and put a roasting tin or deep baking dish at the bottom of the oven
• Slash the tops of the baguette four times each, using a sharp knife and very quick movements to avoid deflating the dough
• Place the baguettes in the oven then immediately tip a pint of water into the roasting tin at the bottom to create steam
• Bake for 15 minutes before turning the oven down to 220°C and baking for a further 5-10 minutes more
• Transfer to a wire rack to cool

Baguettes should be eaten the day they are made, but they are also good the next day if toasted and spread with lots of salted butter and raspberry jam.